Back into the Sea of Cortez - 2011
- or, as the Mexicans call it – the Gulf of California! This will be the final segment of our first year of cruising in Mexico; and, after our initial taste of cruising in the Sea last fall when we ventured north out of La Paz to the islands of Espiritu Santo and Carleta Partida, we are anxious to get back to the rugged beauty of this remote and desert-like cruising ground. But first, we have to get there – its almost 200 miles from Mazatlan to the “landfall” anchorage of Ensenada de los Muertos on the Baja side. So after a few (final?) trips to the grocery store for provisioning, and a trip to the fuel dock, we are ready to head out!
PASSAGE TO MUERTOS –May 6-7, 2011
The trip from Mazatlan to the Baja is an overnighter – 190 nautical miles to Muertos. We slipped the lines at Marina Mazatlan at an early (for us, anyway) 7:00 am, with the plan to arrive at Muertos by mid-afternoon the next day. When we left the breakwater and got out into the Pacific Ocean again, the seas were flat calm, and the sun was shining brightly. The only thing that would have made the picture perfect would have been 10-15 knots of breeze out of the northeast – the wind would come later that day, but not from the right direction!
Not long after we left we checked in by VHF radio with some friends of ours - Hugh and Anne Jenings on the Port Ludlow based S/V Serendipity (who left Mazatlan early the day before) – they were 35 miles out of Muertos at the time we called them. The transmissions back and forth were crystal clear – like Hugh and Anne were only 5 miles away, when in reality they were nearly 140 miles away! For those familiar with VHF marine radios this may seem odd – as the typical range of such radios is line of sight and no more than about 25 miles – but in the lower Sea of Cortez, and in fact many places along the Pacific coast of Mexico, it is not unusual to pick up VHF transmissions as much as 200 miles away! There is something definitely peculiar with VHF radio wave propagation in this area!
With the seas as flat as they were when we left Mazatlan, it was easy to spot the numerous turtles we passed several miles from shore – many with a “hitch hiking” bird riding on its back! Not long afterwards, around 1:30 pm, we discovered we had picked two hitch-hiking birds of our own – and they stayed with us until around 7:00 pm that night; where they went we have no idea, but it was certainly a lot further back to shore when they left than when they joined us - we hope they made it safely!
- or, as the Mexicans call it – the Gulf of California! This will be the final segment of our first year of cruising in Mexico; and, after our initial taste of cruising in the Sea last fall when we ventured north out of La Paz to the islands of Espiritu Santo and Carleta Partida, we are anxious to get back to the rugged beauty of this remote and desert-like cruising ground. But first, we have to get there – its almost 200 miles from Mazatlan to the “landfall” anchorage of Ensenada de los Muertos on the Baja side. So after a few (final?) trips to the grocery store for provisioning, and a trip to the fuel dock, we are ready to head out!
PASSAGE TO MUERTOS –May 6-7, 2011
The trip from Mazatlan to the Baja is an overnighter – 190 nautical miles to Muertos. We slipped the lines at Marina Mazatlan at an early (for us, anyway) 7:00 am, with the plan to arrive at Muertos by mid-afternoon the next day. When we left the breakwater and got out into the Pacific Ocean again, the seas were flat calm, and the sun was shining brightly. The only thing that would have made the picture perfect would have been 10-15 knots of breeze out of the northeast – the wind would come later that day, but not from the right direction!
Not long after we left we checked in by VHF radio with some friends of ours - Hugh and Anne Jenings on the Port Ludlow based S/V Serendipity (who left Mazatlan early the day before) – they were 35 miles out of Muertos at the time we called them. The transmissions back and forth were crystal clear – like Hugh and Anne were only 5 miles away, when in reality they were nearly 140 miles away! For those familiar with VHF marine radios this may seem odd – as the typical range of such radios is line of sight and no more than about 25 miles – but in the lower Sea of Cortez, and in fact many places along the Pacific coast of Mexico, it is not unusual to pick up VHF transmissions as much as 200 miles away! There is something definitely peculiar with VHF radio wave propagation in this area!
With the seas as flat as they were when we left Mazatlan, it was easy to spot the numerous turtles we passed several miles from shore – many with a “hitch hiking” bird riding on its back! Not long afterwards, around 1:30 pm, we discovered we had picked two hitch-hiking birds of our own – and they stayed with us until around 7:00 pm that night; where they went we have no idea, but it was certainly a lot further back to shore when they left than when they joined us - we hope they made it safely!
Also, when the winds and seas are calm on a long passage, there are always boat projects to keep one occupied!
Sunsets are usually spectacular at sea, and this night was no different – but with the setting sun came the wind and chop (for several hours) – and at 330 degrees it was right “on the nose.” There was also what seemed like a parade of freighters and passenger ferries traveling between La Paz and Mazatlan night that kept our attention glued to the radar!
Sunrise brought us a few surprise visitors, too – several flying fish that came aboard during the night! Linda could not be convinced to fry them up for breakfast, though! Too bad!
The hook was down in the clear green waters of Ensenada de los Muertos by 3:30 pm on May 7, and we were “back in the Baja” – having left for the mainland from this same anchorage on December 11, 2010. We rowed ashore in the dinghy and had dinner at a nice (and the only) beachside restaurant, then went back to the boat where Bob flaked out in cockpit and spent the night “under the stars” – Linda, being a little more “civilized,” retired to the v-berth! The next day was spent relaxing and doing a few boat chores before we went ashore with Hugh and Anne for a visit to the Grand Sueños Resort for “Happy Hour” and some parlor games!
Back on the boat for some relaxing and a gorgeous sunset!
PUERTO BALANDRA – May 9-10
After two nights in Muertos, it was time to head north. We were traveling with Serendipity, but they left about an hour before us in pea-soup fog! We decided to wait for the sun to burn
some of the fog off before starting out; when we left about 9:45 am, visibility was up to about 1 ½ miles, and by the time we entered Cerralvo Channel about 45 minutes later the fog had cleared completely.
The wind was a whopping 2.5 knots out of the SE when we entered the channel and 5 knots out of the north about 25 miles later when we neared the northern end of the channel. We enjoyed the motor boat ride past rugged and barren Isla Cerralvo and on toward San Lorenzo Channel (that leads to the Bay of La Paz) and Isla Espiritu Santo. Our destination that night was Playa Bonanza, a beautiful open bay on the SE corner of Espiritu Santo, where there is good protection from northerly winds, but it is open to the east and south. We pulled into the anchorage right behind Serendipity, but as soon as we both had our anchors down and set the wind veered to the ESE and piped up to 10-12 knots; this did not bode well for a peaceful night on the hook so we weighed anchor and headed for Puerto Balandra, another beautiful anchorage just past the west entrance to San Lorenzo Channel. Don’t let the name mislead you – there are many “peurtos” in Mexico that are not “ports” – the closest thing to civilization in Puerto Balandra was a cell tower on one of the neighboring hills overlooking the small bay.
After two nights in Muertos, it was time to head north. We were traveling with Serendipity, but they left about an hour before us in pea-soup fog! We decided to wait for the sun to burn
some of the fog off before starting out; when we left about 9:45 am, visibility was up to about 1 ½ miles, and by the time we entered Cerralvo Channel about 45 minutes later the fog had cleared completely.
The wind was a whopping 2.5 knots out of the SE when we entered the channel and 5 knots out of the north about 25 miles later when we neared the northern end of the channel. We enjoyed the motor boat ride past rugged and barren Isla Cerralvo and on toward San Lorenzo Channel (that leads to the Bay of La Paz) and Isla Espiritu Santo. Our destination that night was Playa Bonanza, a beautiful open bay on the SE corner of Espiritu Santo, where there is good protection from northerly winds, but it is open to the east and south. We pulled into the anchorage right behind Serendipity, but as soon as we both had our anchors down and set the wind veered to the ESE and piped up to 10-12 knots; this did not bode well for a peaceful night on the hook so we weighed anchor and headed for Puerto Balandra, another beautiful anchorage just past the west entrance to San Lorenzo Channel. Don’t let the name mislead you – there are many “peurtos” in Mexico that are not “ports” – the closest thing to civilization in Puerto Balandra was a cell tower on one of the neighboring hills overlooking the small bay.
The next day was spent exploring the beautiful bay by dinghy and doing a few boat projects.
After a second night of a somewhat gusty local wind phenomenon called a “coromuel” that blows out of the southwest in the evenings as cooler air from the Pacific blows across the low, narrow La Paz plains toward the warmer waters of the Sea of Cortez, we headed out toward Isla San Francisco, 33 miles to the north.
After a second night of a somewhat gusty local wind phenomenon called a “coromuel” that blows out of the southwest in the evenings as cooler air from the Pacific blows across the low, narrow La Paz plains toward the warmer waters of the Sea of Cortez, we headed out toward Isla San Francisco, 33 miles to the north.
ISLA SAN FRANCISCO – MAY 11-13
The trip from Balandra to Isla San Francisco provided some of the most exhilarating sailing we have experienced to date in Mexico. When we left the anchorage, the skies were clear and sunny but the winds were light –however, by the time we were just south west of Espiritu Santo with about 30 miles to go, the winds filled in nicely from the north and built to a steady 18-20 knots that held through the rest of the day. With a reefed genoa and full mainsail we set off on a close reach to the northwest and stayed on the same tack for over five hours, slicing through the winds waves and reaching boat speeds of 7.5 knots, at least when Linda was on the helm! With one tack we laid the approach to the south anchorage on Isla San Francisco. Wow, what a ride!
The trip from Balandra to Isla San Francisco provided some of the most exhilarating sailing we have experienced to date in Mexico. When we left the anchorage, the skies were clear and sunny but the winds were light –however, by the time we were just south west of Espiritu Santo with about 30 miles to go, the winds filled in nicely from the north and built to a steady 18-20 knots that held through the rest of the day. With a reefed genoa and full mainsail we set off on a close reach to the northwest and stayed on the same tack for over five hours, slicing through the winds waves and reaching boat speeds of 7.5 knots, at least when Linda was on the helm! With one tack we laid the approach to the south anchorage on Isla San Francisco. Wow, what a ride!
In many respects, Isla San Francisco is your “picture perfect” Sea of Cortez anchorage – a beautiful white sand beach, clear aquamarine water, and rugged hills ringing the anchorage that provide good wind protection from many directions. And here you are just about far enough north to experience very little of the effects of nighttime coromuels.
We spent three nights and two and a half days here; the first full day was spent exploring ashore and hiking the breath-taking ridgeline above the anchorage, but the last day and a half were anything but idyllic as we spent most of the time trying (unsuccessfully) to figure out why our refrigeration air conditioning system decided to quit working! Fortunately, when our refrigeration/ac system was installed in 2007, we also installed a separate back-up freezer system – and that has literally saved our bacon (and everything else in the freezer). With the aid of some foil covered bubble-wrap, Linda has figured out a way to turn the top half of the freezer into a refrigeration compartment – so, until we can crack the code or get the Glacier Bay system fixed, the little back-up Isotherm unit is doing yeoman’s work!
We spent three nights and two and a half days here; the first full day was spent exploring ashore and hiking the breath-taking ridgeline above the anchorage, but the last day and a half were anything but idyllic as we spent most of the time trying (unsuccessfully) to figure out why our refrigeration air conditioning system decided to quit working! Fortunately, when our refrigeration/ac system was installed in 2007, we also installed a separate back-up freezer system – and that has literally saved our bacon (and everything else in the freezer). With the aid of some foil covered bubble-wrap, Linda has figured out a way to turn the top half of the freezer into a refrigeration compartment – so, until we can crack the code or get the Glacier Bay system fixed, the little back-up Isotherm unit is doing yeoman’s work!
SAN EVARISTO – MAY 14-15
The small fishing village of San Evaristo is located on a beautiful little bay just a short 9 miles north of Isla San Francisco. We left San Francisco in the mid-afternoon and had the hook down in San Evaristo in time for “Happy Hour.” The next day we took the dinghy into shore and explored what there was of the village, bought a few provisions in the local tiendas, and then bought fresh fish (cardenal) from some fishermen on the beach – 2 kilos (four pounds) for 50 pesos (about $4 US)– filleted and skinned as we watched! Tasty, too!
The small fishing village of San Evaristo is located on a beautiful little bay just a short 9 miles north of Isla San Francisco. We left San Francisco in the mid-afternoon and had the hook down in San Evaristo in time for “Happy Hour.” The next day we took the dinghy into shore and explored what there was of the village, bought a few provisions in the local tiendas, and then bought fresh fish (cardenal) from some fishermen on the beach – 2 kilos (four pounds) for 50 pesos (about $4 US)– filleted and skinned as we watched! Tasty, too!
BAHIA SAN MARTE – MAY 6-17
The favored anchorages in these parts are Los Gatos - 14 miles to the south of Bahia San Marte – and Aqua Verde– 7 miles to the north & west; so many cruisers skip San Marte but we are certainly glad we didn’t! It was peaceful, with stunning scenery, great beachcombing and exploring ashore, and a ascinating sea cave to explore by dinghy in a cove just over a mile to the south, with some wonderful fish you could easily see in crystal clear water among the rocks and reefs just offshore of the cave. n the mornings, fish came to our boat to entertain us while we drank our morning coffee!
The favored anchorages in these parts are Los Gatos - 14 miles to the south of Bahia San Marte – and Aqua Verde– 7 miles to the north & west; so many cruisers skip San Marte but we are certainly glad we didn’t! It was peaceful, with stunning scenery, great beachcombing and exploring ashore, and a ascinating sea cave to explore by dinghy in a cove just over a mile to the south, with some wonderful fish you could easily see in crystal clear water among the rocks and reefs just offshore of the cave. n the mornings, fish came to our boat to entertain us while we drank our morning coffee!
BAHIA AQUA VERDE – MAY 18-20
Another of the quintessential anchorages in the southern Sea of Cortez, Bahia Aqua Verde is a cruisers’ favorite good reason; there is good snorkeling (although we are waiting for the water to warm up a bit – it’s still only about 75°), good hiking, and a small village (bigger than San Evaristo) with two tiendas! There is even a place in town with a sign on the fence that says“Restaurant” – but we are not convinced it really is!
We spent three wonderful days in Aqua Verde and thoroughly enjoyed it – from the cruisers’ potluck on the beach with most of the 12 or so other boats in the anchorage the night we arrived (including some friends we had not seen since La Cruz) to hiking and simply relaxing and reading. Life is good!
Another of the quintessential anchorages in the southern Sea of Cortez, Bahia Aqua Verde is a cruisers’ favorite good reason; there is good snorkeling (although we are waiting for the water to warm up a bit – it’s still only about 75°), good hiking, and a small village (bigger than San Evaristo) with two tiendas! There is even a place in town with a sign on the fence that says“Restaurant” – but we are not convinced it really is!
We spent three wonderful days in Aqua Verde and thoroughly enjoyed it – from the cruisers’ potluck on the beach with most of the 12 or so other boats in the anchorage the night we arrived (including some friends we had not seen since La Cruz) to hiking and simply relaxing and reading. Life is good!
PUERTO ESCONDIDO & LORETO – MAY 21-27
Puerto Escondido is a well protected harbor 14 miles south of Loreto with mooring balls you can rent for a reasonable fee from the government owned marina facility (Fondeo Singlar) that operates the harbor, boat yard, fuel dock and leases space to several dockside businesses, to include a small “convenience store” and restaurant. You can also anchor in the harbor, but you are charged as much to do so as you are to pick up a mooring!
There are a few taxis available to take cruisers to town (Loreto) from Escondido, but no buses – and the taxis are not inexpensive (they have learned about supply & demand!). We did get together with a number of other cruisers the day after we rrived and rented a taxi (van) to take us into Loreto for the Sunday Market, to stroll around the Mission and town square for a while, and do some provisioning at the local supermarket - a real grocery store - not just a tienda! We also rented a car for a couple of days, and with our friends Hugh and Anne off Serendipity spent one day driving up into the mountains to visit an eighteenth century mission at San Javier (with a stop in Loreto on the way back for dinner), and another day in Loreto sightseeing, shopping, and enjoying dinner with a wonderful view of the bay at a restaurant on the Malecon.
Puerto Escondido is a well protected harbor 14 miles south of Loreto with mooring balls you can rent for a reasonable fee from the government owned marina facility (Fondeo Singlar) that operates the harbor, boat yard, fuel dock and leases space to several dockside businesses, to include a small “convenience store” and restaurant. You can also anchor in the harbor, but you are charged as much to do so as you are to pick up a mooring!
There are a few taxis available to take cruisers to town (Loreto) from Escondido, but no buses – and the taxis are not inexpensive (they have learned about supply & demand!). We did get together with a number of other cruisers the day after we rrived and rented a taxi (van) to take us into Loreto for the Sunday Market, to stroll around the Mission and town square for a while, and do some provisioning at the local supermarket - a real grocery store - not just a tienda! We also rented a car for a couple of days, and with our friends Hugh and Anne off Serendipity spent one day driving up into the mountains to visit an eighteenth century mission at San Javier (with a stop in Loreto on the way back for dinner), and another day in Loreto sightseeing, shopping, and enjoying dinner with a wonderful view of the bay at a restaurant on the Malecon.
After a day of boat projects, it will be time to head back out and explore some more of this incredible Sea of Cortez!